In this post, we will formulate a new
recipe and calculate the needed water amounts at the same time. This
is not a big deal since the only real water change is the amount of
water absorbed by the grains. Because we do not yet know the amount
of grains we will use, we calculate the water from the target batch
size back until we get to the water absorbed by the grains. At that
point, we are able to calculate our grain amounts and then complete
the water calculations. Rather than just talk about this process, I
want to demonstrate the steps needed so that it serves as a complete
example for reference.
Before moving on, I feel I need to make
something clear: The Original Gravity (OG) and Final Gravity (FG)
measurements are both taken from my fermenter. The OG is measured
prior to adding the yeast for fermentation, and the FG is measured
after fermentation has completed. This is important, and I did not
make this distinction previously which could lead to some confusion
when talking water amounts used in calculations.
OK, I am excited about this recipe
because it is a first attempt at cloning my favorite beer: Goose
Island's Bourbon
County Stout. In this post, I do not want to get into my
feelings towards the InBev purchase of Goose Island, so I will just
summarize that my initial optimism and acceptance was turned sour by
the discovery/learning of the unscrupulous InBev corporate views of
the craft beer industry and their unethical business practices. So,
all the better if the beer can be replicated at home. On to the
recipe....
As I mentioned, I am excited to try and
brew this beer, but the recipe guidelines are not from me. The
grains and hops used are from the Goose Island description linked
above; The gravity values used are from a post in the HomeBrewTalk
forums (using the 2007 version of the beer); The grain percentages
used are also from a post in HomeBrewTalk.
Here are the specifics we are using:
Recipe Parameters
Parameter | Value |
---|---|
Batch Size (fermenter volume) | 3.25 gal. |
Target Original Gravity | 1.13 |
Target Final Gravity | 1.042 |
Color | Black ~100 SRM |
IBU | 60 (assume Tinseth method) |
Length of Boil | 80 min. |
Mash Steps | Single infusion 152°F for 60 min. |
Brewhouse Efficiency | 70% |
Grains
Grain | % Used | Max Extraction | Color (°L) |
---|---|---|---|
2-Row | 34 | 37 | 1.8 |
Munich | 30 | 34 | 10 |
Chocolate | 14 | 34 | 350 |
Crystal 60 | 10 | 34 | 60 |
Roast Barley | 10 | 25 | 300 |
Debittered Black (Briess Blackprinz) | 2 | 25 | 500 |
Hops
Willamette 3.5% to 6.0% AA @60 min. ~4
oz. (TBD)
Yeast
Safale US-05 Dry Yeast 3 packets
STEP 1: Calculate Initial Water Amounts
Remember that the constants used in finding water amounts are specific to my system. Your values may be different. In some cases they are just guesstimates waiting for me to collect more accurate information- Vfinal = 3.0 gal (amount in bottles or keg)
- bottling losses: ~ 0.25 gal.
- Vfermenter = 3.25 gal.
- Transfer and trub losses: ~0.75 gal.
- Vpost-boil = 4.0 gal.
- Temperature shrinkage: 4% ~ 0.2 gal.
- 80 minute boiloff: 2.34 gal.
- Vpre-boil = 6.5 gal.
This is as far as we can get without
knowing the grain amounts.
STEP 2: Estimate Grain Amounts
To summarize the values of interest
here:
- Original Gravity: 1.13 (130 Gravity Points)
- Vfermenter : 3.25 gal.
- Brewhouse Efficiency: 70%
► Total
Gravity (GT)
GT
= Gravity Points * Volume
GT
= 130
* 3.25
GT
= 422.5
This
is the total number of gravity points in our fermenter that we need
to be contributed by the grains.
► Individual
Grain Contributions to Total Gravity
Here
we use the percentage of each grain used to determine the amount of
gravity points each individual grain contributes.
Grain | Percent Calculation | Grain Contribution |
---|---|---|
2-Row | 0.34 * 422.5 | 143.6 |
Munich | 0.30 * 422.5 | 126.7 |
Chocolate | 0.14 * 422.5 | 59.2 |
Crystal 60 | 0.10 * 422.5 | 42.25 |
Roasted Barley | 0.10 * 422.5 | 42.25 |
Blackprinz | 0.02 * 422.5 | 8.5 |
► Grain Amounts Needed to
Achieve Gravity
Now
we use the individual gravity contributions, the maximum gravity that
can be extracted from the grain and our brewhouse efficiency to find
the grain amount. Here is the equation used:
Grain Gravity Contribution / (Brewhouse Efficiency * Max Extract Points)
Grain | Formula | Value (lbs) | Value (lbs And oz) |
---|---|---|---|
2-Row | 143.6 / (0.7 * 37) | 5.5 lbs. | 5 lbs. 8 oz. |
Munich | 126.7 / (0.7 * 34) | 5.3 lbs. | 5 lbs. 5 oz. |
Chocolate | 59.2 / (0.7 * 34) | 2.5 lbs. | 2 lbs. 8 oz. |
Crystal 60 | 42.25 / (0.7 * 34) | 1.8 lbs. | 1 lbs. 13 oz. |
Roasted Barley | 42.25 / (0.7 * 25) | 2.4 lbs. | 2 lbs. 6 oz. |
Blackprinz | 8.5 / (0.7 * 25) | 0.5 lbs. | 0 lbs. 8 oz. |
TOTAL: | 18 lbs. | 18 lbs. 0 oz. |
STEP 3: Calculate Remaining Water Amounts
We now continue where we left off
calculating our water amounts. Our last calculation was for the
pre-boil volume, so we start there:
- Vpre-boil = 6.5 gal.
- Transfer loss: ~0.25 gal.
- Grain Absorption: 18.0 lbs. * 0.2 gal./lb. = 3.6 gal.
- Vtotal = 10.35 gal. ≈ 10 gal. 1.5 qt.
STEP 4: Calculate Mash and Sparge Volumes
For my mash, I am going to use 1.3
quarts of water per pound of grain. Also, remember that I have a
full 4 quarts of space under my false bottom in my mash tun, so that
needs to be added to the mash water.
Vmash = 1.3 qt/lb * 18.0 lbs
+ 4 qt
Vmash = 27.4 qt ≈
6.85
gal. = 6 gal. 3.5
qt.
The
sparge volume is now just a matter of subtracting the mash volume
from the total volume.
Vsparge
= Vtotal
– Vmash
Vsparge
= 10.35
gal – 6.85
gal.
Vsparge
= 3.5
gal. = 3 gal. 2 qt.
Since
I doubt I am 100% correct, I will make sure I have probably 5.0
gallons of sparge water available. I will just need to make sure I
hit the proper volume in my boil kettle while watching the gravity
readings of my runnings.
Conclusion and Remaining Information Needed
So that is it for calculating our
grains and water. Of course, there is some information missing in
regards to brewing the recipe:
- Based on the gravity and volume amounts, I believe the 3 packages of dry yeast will be sufficient for this big beer. One thing we did not cover is the fermentation schedule (times and temps). This will definitely be racked to a secondary fermentation where we will allow the beer to sit on bourbon-soaked oak cubes for probably 6 months. I am not 100% sure, but I will probably let this sit in primary for two weeks; with week one being at a cooler temperature of maybe 60 degrees or so, and the second week at around 68 degrees. The secondary will be 6 months, and that temperature will probably be the same 68 degrees (not a lot of options for my basement).
- Speaking of bourbon-soaked oak cubes, how much bourbon and how many cubes? Since we only have 3 gallons, I am assuming one 1 ounce cube. As far as the bourbon, I am not sure yet (amount or brand). I used Makers Mark and oak chips for my last beer and was less than happy, so this time I am moving to cubes and some other bourbon brand.
So these are questions that still need
to be answered, but we are well on our way to making a first attempt
at our clone. If this recipe doesn't work out, we get to drink what
will probably still be a great beer and then try again. If it does
work, we make more. Truly a win-win.
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